We finally fix a problem with Rusty that’s been there since day one, and show you how to do the same thing in 8 steps. Rusty’s clutch has always been a bit suspect. It’s had bearing noise, odd pedal feel and generally just had a big question mark over it since we’ve owned it. So when Ben Lavis from Drivetech 4×4 dropped around with a brand new clutch kit, we thought it’d be rude of us not to install it.
Here’s the basic rundown of what we did in the video:
- Remove bellhousing bolts and transmission crossmember bolts and slide the transmission assembly back to give you enough room to access the clutch plates.
- Remove old pressure plate and friction plate (careful, this will just fall out once the pressure plate is off), and remove the flywheel. Disconnect the clutch fork and thrust bearing mechanism.
- Amazingly, Rusty’s flywheel was in decent shape. We sent it off to be machined and it came back good as new. You’ll need to check if yours is still good enough for machining, or if it needs replacing due to cracks or excessive wear and tear. Machining costs around the $100 mark and should be considered essential with any clutch change. Now’s also the time to throw in a new spigot bearing.
- With the flywheel back on, torque the bolts to spec, using thread-locking compound (included in the Drivetech 4×4 kit).
- Using the alignment tool (again included) line up the friction and pressure plates using thread locking compound and torque bolts to spec.
- Reconnect the clutch fork and thrust bearing assembly.
- Slide gearbox back into place (transmission jacks make this job so much easier it’s not funny) making sure the input shaft is properly engaged and seated in the back of the engine, tighten all bellhousing and crossmember bolts to spec.
- Ensure clutch is operating as it should and there is the right amount of adjustment in the pedal.
After a couple of spirited laps around the block, Rusty feels just like a bought one! Things are getting real close to hitting the tracks now. Stay tuned!