For the majority of off-roaders a working week is simply a means to fund our real interests – those much-anticipated bush getaways. While it is great to have the big weeks-long trips pencilled into the calendar over the year, the next best thing is arriving in one of your favourite campsites on a Friday afternoon, cracking a coldie and looking forward to the relaxation of simply being out bush on the weekend (jeez I’m getting withdrawals as I’m writing this mid-week!).
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I recently decided to head out on a great scenic weekender with a difference, well within the reach of Canberra. By no means is Kosciuszko National Park renowned for its challenging tracks. In fact, there really aren’t any. But what it lacks in challenging terrain, it sure makes up for in beauty. So discarding the well-beaten coastal paths and the nearby Brindabellas as options, we decided to head up into the NSW High Country for a fantastic and scenic weekend touring trip.
Heading south to Cooma and turning west towards Adaminaby, we stopped for a quick top-up before heading for higher ground – destination Rocky Plain campground. Not long after you enter the Park boundary, and after a few climbs, you are swiftly transcended into the Alpine environment. The sudden transformation of bushland and terrain is remarkable if you are keen enough to observe it. Located only a few hundred metres from the Snowy Mountains Highway and along a simple gravel track, the campground is (as its name suggests) located along a relatively small plain… and yes, there are rocks. The camp area itself is fairly open and large with scattered gums, bush and dispersed sites.
What makes this a pretty remarkable spot though, is the views. If you like the high country feel then you will love this. The surrounding mountains are not so close as to make you feel enclosed – but rather offer an incredible vista. It’s a shame that the long drop toilet does not have a window – it would be one of the best thunderbox views in Australia.
After a cool night around the campfire and with no set plans on the Saturday, we decided to have a bit of a sleep-in and do some exploring. A few hundred metres down the road on the southern side is Sawyers Hut. Skilfully restored by the National Parks & Wildlife Service (NPWS) after it was badly damaged in the 2003 bushfires, it is today used as a refuge for stranded travellers only. It was originally built in the early 1900s as a staging post for coaches.
Right alongside the hut is a track that winds for a few kays down to a particularly scenic part of the Eucumbene River. After grabbing a few pictures we once again pointed the bonnet upwards toward Mt Selwyn. A winter ski resort, Mt Selwyn sits a bit over 1,500m high – but you can keep travelling past here on the dirt track through to Cabramurra (Kings Cross Road). After a few klicks, and keeping left, we followed Tumut Ponds Trail which eventually winds itself down to Tumut Pond Reservoir (part of the Snowy Hydro Scheme). Along the way we noted some of the best Alpine views this country has to offer… seriously, up there with Mt Pinnibar views. We made a note to head back for sunset.
After descending into the Tumut Pondage we were greeted by some very large open grassy areas situated along the crystal-clear creek which feeds into the reservoir. Formerly this area was a large base camp for the Snowy Hydro Scheme construction workers, although little remains today – only a few building foundations and two bridge skeletons.
What is interesting is that these bridges (and in fact most of the site of the original camp) are subject to fairly rapid rises in the water level and the bridges are often completely submerged. We found evidence of this by locating a fishing lure in the rocks some ten-plus metres above the creek. So, similar to Old Adaminaby (the township which was completely relocated to its current position as Lake Eucumbene was flooded), this area was also abandoned during the Scheme.
Having explored, we set off up the hill again towards Selwyn to take in a stunning sunset before heading back to Rocky Plain for another night. On our Saturday exploration we had noted several areas that we wanted to visit before making another base camp at Three Mile Dam the next day, for our final night.
Unzipping the swag to discover a crisp blue autumn sky with no breeze at all had our spirits immediately soaring. The weather up here can be reasonably unpredictable and it can change very quickly… but so far our luck had pretty much held out; a few ominous clouds the day before but nothing to really worry about. We had a feed and a coffee, then made our way back towards Mt Selwyn – stopping short at Kiandra to check out some historical sites.
The old Scheme schoolhouse and gravesite have weathered the Alpine weather remarkably well and are located just a short way off the Snowy Mountains Highway. The Kiandra area is basically a vast open Alpine plain, rich in history. From the old Kosciuszko to the Scheme remnants it is easy to spend time checking out the past and developing a deep respect for those who once lived and worked in some of Australia’s most extreme climates. Snow and blizzards in winter and scorching heat in summer made for some very resilient people.
Located pretty much adjacent to the Mt Selwyn turnoff along Link Road is Three Mile Dam. One of Australia’s highest dams, it not only enjoys that special Alpine fauna and flora, but also boasts waterfront camping. Although easily accessed by non-4X4s it is nonetheless an incredibly beautiful place – ideal for the family and well worth visiting.
If we hadn’t already done so, we were now well and truly feeling like we were a million miles from the stresses of home. Making a nice campsite just tucked into the treeline on the eastern shores left us with the afternoon free for a bit of trout fishing and nothingness. Another beautiful sunset was observed across the dam. We reflected on how good it was just to be up here. We had also proven yet again that a well-known trout fishery was actually completely devoid of fish and that taking backup food (although deemed unnecessary during planning) was actually a decent idea.
Another night spent around the warm fire and cloudless stellar overhead curtain was really ‘icing on the cake’ of a very accessible yet incredibly picturesque trip… well within reach for a weekender.
TRAVEL TIPS
During winter, much of the area travelled experiences heavy snowfall. Road conditions vary greatly and most campsites are closed by the National Parks & Wildlife Service (NPWS). It is advisable to check with the NPWS prior to travelling, to check on conditions and closures.
Travelling in autumn or spring is advisable to avoid the heat of summer (and, in spring, to witness the gradual snowmelt).
You do need a pass to use Kosciuszko National Park: Check out the NPWS website for details.
Should you happen to find these areas busy, there are several other campsites within easy reach.
